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Thăm phố núi Gia Lai và thưởng thức những món ăn dân dã gây “thương nhớ”

Rời xa thành phố đô thị để đến với Gia Lai, thăm thú phố núi Pleiku thơ mộng, thưởng thức món phở khô đặc trưng của vùng đất nơi đây, món bún cua ở Chợ Nhỏ; gỏi gan bò ở đập Đức An; cơm cháy chiên phết mỡ hành, uống cà phê vào sáng sớm theo đúng phong cách Pleiku…

Phở khô (phở hai tô)

Phở 2 Tô Gia Lai

Phở khô không chỉ là món ăn ngon mà còn là niềm tự hào của người dân Pleiku. Hình minh họa. Nguồn: Internet.

Có một món ăn đặc trưng mà không du khách nào đặt chân tới mảnh đất này có thể bỏ qua, đó chính là phở khô Gia Lai. Người dân ở đây thường đặt cho nó một cái tên dân dã khác là phở hai tô, phở “ăn hai tô mới đủ đô”.

Phở hai tô độc đáo từ chính cách ăn “hai tô”. Không như các loại phở thông thường có phở và nước dùng cùng chung một tô, phở khô Gia Lai luôn được phục vụ với hai tô, một đựng phở, một là nước lèo. Tô bánh phở không thể nào thiếu thịt heo băm nhỏ, gà xé sợi, hành phi giòn được trộn với nước sốt đặc biệt. Còn nước dùng thì thơm ngọt, ăn kèm thêm chút giá đỗ để tránh gây cảm giác ngán.

Người ăn sẽ thưởng thức phở riêng, rồi húp một ngụm nhỏ nước lèo, ăn kèm rau sống và một chút tương đen đặc biệt, đặc chế biến theo phương thức gia truyền của mỗi quán.

“Cà sóc” kiến vàng

Cá Sóc Kiến Vàng

Món ăn này thật ra là tên gọi của đu đủ xanh thái sợi, trộn cùng với kiến vàng còn sống, giã nhuyển. Hình minh hoạ. Nguồn: Internet

Món ăn này thật ra là tên gọi của đu đủ xanh thái sợi, trộn cùng với kiến vàng còn sống, giã nhuyển.

Và theo thói quen ăn uống ở đây, ai cũng đều dùng tay bốc từng nhúm để thưởng thức. Có thể cảm nhận rất rõ cái vị chan chát của đu đủ hòa với vị chua thanh của kiến vàng, vị cay xè của ớt và vị thơm bùi của lá é. Bốc một nhúm lần đầu tiên ăn thử, thực khách chắc chắn sẽ muốn bốc lần hai, rồi lần ba, lần bốn… cho tới khi cái tô nhựa trống trơn.

 Bò nướng ống
Bò Nướng Ống

Món ăn này thật ra là tên gọi của đu đủ xanh thái sợi, trộn cùng với kiến vàng còn sống, giã nhuyển. Hình minh hoạ. Nguồn: Internet

Trong những món ăn của đồng bào dân tộc ở đây, bò nướng ống tre (người Jrai gọi là nham đing) tuy đơn giản nhưng lại rất độc đáo với hương vị thơm ngon rất khó diễn tả.

Món ăn này là sự pha trộn giữa các loại rau rừng và thịt bò thái lát mỏng, thịt bò được làm chín bằng cách nướng trong ống tre nhưng lại không có mùi khói, thay vào đó là mùi tre cháy xém rất đặc trưng, hòa quyện với vị ngọt của thịt bò cùng hương thơm quyến rũ của các loại rau rừng trong món ăn.

Bánh tráng xoài

Bánh Tráng Xoài

Bánh tráng xoài là loại bánh tráng được làm từ xoài.

Đi giữa cái nắng Krông Pa ta sẽ bắt gặp những cây xoài chi chít quả, rụng đầy gốc cây. Nhưng rồi tiếc của trời, người dân ở đây tìm tòi ra cách để khỏi phải lãng phí những trái xoài ngon ngọt kia. Bánh tráng xoài ra đời là sự kết tinh của sự chịu thương chịu khó của người dân.

Cũng đơn giản lắm, bởi chỉ cần có xoài và có nắng. Xoài chín cây vừa rụng, gọt lấy phần cùi, xay nhuyễn đặt lên bếp đun cho sánh lại, để nguội. Lấy bì bóng kít thức ăn trải ra phên nứa, phên tre, nong, nia, mâm, mẹt… rồi thoa chút dầu ăn (tốt nhất là dầu dừa) cho khỏi dính. Xong đổ lớp mỏng hỗn hợp sóng sánh đó lên, đem phơi nắng. Chọn đúng hôm nắng thật to. Và cũng chỉ đúng một nắng để bánh tráng giữ được nguyên vẹn cả hương lẫn vị và màu vàng óng của xoài. Thế là xong mẻ bánh tráng xoài như ý.

Bún cua thối

Bún cua thối có vị ngon rất riêng khó mà diễn tả được thành lời, chỉ biết rằng nước dùng rất ngọt thanh, vị cay cay, mằn mặn.

Bún thối hay bún mắm cua được cho là món ăn nổi tiếng ở Pleiku bởi hương vị đặc biệt. Món ăn này vốn xuất thân từ đất Bình Định, lúc đầu chủ yếu nấu ăn trong gia đình, sau đó người Bình Định đến Pleiku phổ biến món ăn này và được nhiều người ưa thích.

Thực khách đã có thể ngửi được mùi thối đặc trưng của món ăn trước khi bước vào quán bởi cua đồng sau khi giã lấy nước đã được ủ một ngày cho lên mùi, rồi mới mang đi nấu. Ngoài nước cua, để ngọt nước, đầu bếp còn cho thêm măng luộc, nhiều khách còn yêu cầu cả trứng vịt luộc.

 Món ăn này rất kén người ăn bởi mùi thum thủm của cua thối và nồng nồng của nước cua lên men. Nhưng một khi đã ăn rồi thì khó lòng mà quên được mùi vị của món bún này. Bún cua thối có vị ngon rất riêng khó mà diễn tả được thành lời, chỉ biết rằng nước dùng rất ngọt thanh, vị cay cay, mằn mặn.

Gỏi lá rừng

Bát nước xốt nhỏ được chế biến từ lòng cá, trứng cá xay nhuyễn, rồi chưng lên với gia vị, mắm muối chính là thứ quyết định để dẫn tất cả các loại lá rừng kia thành một món ăn “Gỏi lá rừng”.

Người ta khẽ cuốn nhẹ những chiếc lá thành hình chiếc phễu. Gắp thêm miếng xoài xanh cắt nhỏ, lát ớt, tép tỏi rồi gắp miếng thịt lợn ba chỉ thái nhỏ, cùng con tép nhỏ. Khi tất cả đã đủ mới dùng chiếc thìa nhỏ múc thứ nước xốt sền sệt vào rồi thêm hạt tiêu tươi. Thứ nước xốt đó được chế biến từ lòng cá, trứng cá xay nhuyễn, rồi chưng lên với gia vị, mắm muối. Đây là thứ quyết định để dẫn tất cả các loại lá rừng kia thành một món ăn “Gỏi lá rừng”.

Trước kia, gỏi lá rừng có nguyên gốc ở Kon Tum và khi di cư về Gia Lai được đón nhận một cách nhiệt tình. Mâm lá đầy ắp cũng không kịp đếm cho đủ 50 loại hay không, có lẽ cũng hơn 30 loại và mỗi phễu lá cũng chỉ có thể xếp được mươi loại lá mà thôi.

Để chọn những lá rừng ngon, chuẩn, không có độc tố và không có phản ứng khi ăn kèm cùng nhau, nhất định phải là người có kinh nghiệm. Gỏi lá rừng chính là sự kết hợp đầy hấp dẫn giữa nem thính và mắm thịt, taọ nên sự hòa quyện giữa vị cay nồng của lá tươi và vị mặn mà của thịt, của nem.

Cơm lam gà nướng

   

Những ống cơm lam được nấu trong ống tre, có mùi thơm thơm của gạo, quyện lẫn mùi ngai ngái của tre nứa như mang lại hương vị của núi rừng.

Một món ăn nhất định bạn không thể bỏ qua đó là cơm lam gà nướng. Những ống cơm lam được nấu trong ống tre, có mùi thơm thơm của gạo, quyện lẫn mùi ngai ngái của tre nứa như mang lại hương vị của núi rừng.

Cơm lam ở đây được nấu bằng loại gạo nếp nương hạt nhỏ, thuôn dài. Bóc từng miếng tre nứa bên ngoài sẽ thấy phần cơm trắng nõn, dẻo và thơm phức. Cơm lam được nướng trong ống tre, nứa nên mang hương vị của núi rừng.

Cơm lam là món ăn đặc trưng của vùng núi Tây Bắc, nhưng khi được ăn cùng với gà nướng thì lại mang một hương vị khác đậm chất Tây Nguyên. Gà được nướng bằng cách cắm gần đống than hồng chứ không nướng trực tiếp để tránh bị khô, vì thế khi ăn gà vẫn còn rất mềm và thơm, lưu giữ được vị ngọt đặc trưng.

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